Growing FAQ

Work through these in order:

1. pH first. A wrong root-zone pH locks out nutrients and is the most common cause of “sick” leaves. Test your runoff (soil) or reservoir (hydro) and bring it into range before anything else — 6.3–6.8 for soil, 5.5–6.1 for hydro/coco.
2. Then nutrients. Only after pH is correct, compare symptoms to a nutrient deficiency chart (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, etc.). When in doubt, the fix is rarely more nutrients.
3. Then watering. Too-frequent watering (not too much at once) suffocates roots and mimics deficiencies. Let the medium dry a knuckle deep between waterings.

Two steps: (1) wait until the soil is dry about a knuckle deep — judge by feel or by lifting the pot’s weight; (2) water until a little drains from the bottom, then go back to step one. As long as the pot has drainage, the amount per watering matters less than the frequency. Overwatering = watering too often.

For soil, aim for roughly 6.3–6.8. For hydro or coco, aim for roughly 5.5–6.1. Test the water before adding nutrients, the mix after, and the runoff/reservoir. Adjust with pH Up / pH Down. A pH meter is the tool beginners most often skip and most regret skipping.

You’ll see signs about 1–2 weeks after flipping to 12/12 (or as outdoor daylight shortens). Females show fine white hairs (pistils) at the nodes; males show small round pollen sacs. Unless you want seeds, remove males before the sacs open — their pollen will seed your females and reduce potency.

Don’t go by size, hairs, or calendar alone — go by trichomes (the tiny resin glands), viewed with a jeweler’s loupe or pocket scope. Clear = too early; cloudy/milky = peak potency; amber = more sedative, couch-lock effect. Harvest in the window that matches the effect you want.

Depends on the type, per square foot of canopy: modern LED ~30–40 real watts/ft² (the beginner default); HID (HPS/MH/CMH) ~50–80 watts/ft² (cheap but hot); CFL at least ~80 watts/ft² (small grows only). Skip incandescent and random household bulbs — they don’t work for flowering.

Buy from a reputable seedbank rather than relying on bagseed (random seeds from flower), which give unpredictable results. Look for sellers with a long track record, real reviews, and clear shipping policies for your region. Decide whether you want autoflower or photoperiod seeds first (see below).

Photoperiod plants veg under 18/6 and only flower when you switch to 12/12, so you control their size and timing (bigger potential yields, more work). Autoflowers flower automatically after a few weeks regardless of light schedule and finish faster — simpler and more forgiving for a first grow, with somewhat smaller yields.

In veg, photoperiod plants want long days — 18 hours on / 6 off (some run 24/0). To start flowering, switch to a strict 12 on / 12 off and keep the dark period completely dark — light leaks during flower cause real problems. Use a timer so the schedule never drifts.

Yes — flowering plants smell, a lot. The standard solution is a carbon filter paired with good exhaust ventilation, which scrubs the air on its way out. Seal light leaks and gaps in your space, which also helps contain odor.

Keep them somewhere cool, dark, and dry — an airtight container in a drawer or the fridge is fine. Stored that way they stay viable for years.

Brand names matter far less than beginners think. Any reputable potting mix (ideally one without slow-release synthetic fertilizer) and any basic grow/bloom nutrient line will work. Search for a local hydroponics/grow store, or order online, and follow the feeding schedule for whatever you buy.

Sometimes — but read the bag. Avoid anything advertising “extended,” “slow-release,” or “feeds for months” fertilizer; that timed-release feeding fights your own schedule and is a common cause of nutrient burn. A plain, quality potting mix is fine to start. This topic draws strong opinions, so do a little research before committing a whole grow to a bargain bag.

If you share grow photos, take two precautions. First, strip EXIF metadata — phone photos can embed GPS coordinates and device info; many free tools remove it, and some image hosts strip it on upload. Second, check the frame for anything identifying: mail, documents, faces, reflections, or recognizable backgrounds. When in doubt, crop tight and post from an anonymous account.